February 9, 2014

Speak Landscape Like A Pro…What does Deciduous and Evergreen Mean?

Sango kaku Coralbark maple has fine leaf texture.

Sango kaku Coralbark maple drops leaves in the Fall.

You just want privacy?

I recommend evergreen plants.

You want fall color?

I recommend deciduous varieties.

Deciduous means the leaves drop off in the Fall and grow new leaves in the Spring. This is the opposite of evergreen.

Deciduous is most often used referring to shade trees. Oaks, maples, etc. drop their leaves during the dormant season between Nov.-March. 

Evergreen means the leaves or needles stay on the tree or shrub year round. Evergreens are ideal for privacy screening.

Needle evergreen tree examples are pine and spruce. Holly trees and shrubs are considered broadleaf evergreen.

Is this crystal clear? Let me know on Facebook.

This holly will need TLC for two years to reach full establishment

Dragonlady holly is evergreen, it’s spiny leaves stay through winter for privacy.

Filed Under: Speak Landscape Like A Pro
February 8, 2014

Right and Wrong Plant Install Methods – And Little Pointers That Will Increase Your Success

A beautiful tree is bought and installed the same day. Two weeks (or two months) later the leaves are wilting or the needles are turning brown. What happened?

Hollywood Juniper under transplant shock. The soil root ball was incorrectly installed.

Hollywood Juniper under transplant shock. The soil root ball was incorrectly installed.

The plant is in transplant shock. What?

When it was planted or transplanted, something happened that increased plant stress tremendously. Wait, stress, shock, is this even real?

Yes, it sounds funny, but transplant shock happens on some level every time a plant is installed. The roots are happy before the install process occurs and become stressed when water in not applied regularly.

Think about it… plants are not designed to be moved!

Most transplant shock occurs from under-watering. If the roots aren’t happy and moist, then the entire plant suffers. It may take weeks of under-watering or incorrect watering techniques to become apparent. At that point of visual contact and confirmation, it may be too late.

Here’s how to avoid transplant shock.
  • Start with a healthy plant. If the tree or shrub is wilted or looks sick at the garden center, don’t buy it.
  • Dig a proper hole. That means two times wider than the root ball. Try to dig and install just one plant a day if you have a large project. Don’t get in a hurry here. I have stunted more plants because I became exhausted and cut corners.
  • Install correctly. Remove the container (plastic pot) if applicable. If the tree is wrapped in burlap and/or a wire basket, DO NOT REMOVE. The burlap and basket protect the delicate roots from further stress. Apply appropriate amounts of water. You can’t over-water at the point of install. Make a moat!
  • Add mycorrhizae at planting time. Mix with water for greatest effectiveness.
  • Check the root ball every day for moisture with your finger. If needed, soak the root system.

If you follow the guidelines above, you’ll succeed 99% of the time. Good luck!

Question: What install methods have you found to be the most effective? Let me know on Facebook…

 

Filed Under: Establishment and Care Advice, Expensive Mistakes, Plant Install, Speak Landscape Like A Pro