2015 Images

 

2015-12-19 15.57.19

New Sod, Trees, Shrubs, Grasses, and Seasonal Color invite you to your new Nashville home.

 

Soft touch holly border along the sidewalk.

Soft touch holly border along the sidewalk in this before and after Nashville home.

 

Small Colorguard Yucca planted next to variegated liriope.

Small Colorguard Yucca planted next to variegated liriope and a river birch in Murfreesboro.

 

Kale and lettuce started from seed in early February. Transplanted to the raised bed in late March.

 

Lettuce removed, wasn't heat tolerant.

Edible landscaping with a cedar raised bed and pea gravel mulch.

 

River rock mulch with abelias and hydrangeas in Smyrna.

 

Herb kitchen garden with native perennials.

Herb kitchen garden with native perennials in this shady Nashville backyard.

 

Arborvitae removed, replaced with glossy abelia and hydrangea border.

Arborvitae removed, replaced with glossy abelia and hydrangea border.

 

PicMonkey Collage

Boxwood replaced with azaleas.

 

New sod and shrubs for this home near Opryland.

New sod and shrubs for this home near Opryland.

 

Variegated liriope (monkey grass) border with english laurels and Limelight hydrangeas.

Variegated liriope (monkey grass) border with english laurels and Limelight hydrangeas.

 

Korean boxwood and blue Endless Summer hydrangea create a dramatic before and after.

Korean boxwood and blue Endless Summer hydrangea create a dramatic before and after.

 

My first container garden at a the Icon in the Gulch. Emerald Green Arborvitae with white impatiens and creeping jenny perennial.

My first container garden at  the Icon in the Gulch, Nashville! Emerald Green Arborvitae with white impatiens and creeping jenny perennial. Don’t let the pots freeze in the Winter…

 

A weigelia was removed, the Centennial Spirit crapemyrtle was pruned, and a korean boxwood border added. A soaker hose is buried under the mulch for irrigation during the August heat.

East Nashville bungalow…A weigelia was removed, the Centennial Spirit crapemyrtle was pruned, and a korean boxwood border added. A soaker hose is buried under the mulch for irrigation during the August heat.

 

Shady perennial garden started from the weeds!

Shady perennial garden started from the weeds!

 

Abelias and azaleas bring evergreen interest to a shady front yard.

Abelias and azaleas bring evergreen interest to a shady front yard.

 

Perennials and flowering shrubs spruce up this nice home.

Perennials and flowering shrubs spruce up this nice home.

 

This shady area on the north side of the home is perfect for ferns and blue Endless Summer hydrangeas.

This shady area on the north side of the home is perfect for ferns and blue Endless Summer hydrangeas.

Is Mulch Necessary?

The mulch ring keeps the tree moist and happy.

The mulch ring keeps the tree moist and happy.

It can be a lot of heavy, sweaty work.

You see it everywhere, around trees and shrubs, at the park, at nice homes.

Even at the gas station, mulch is used at the base of plants.

Is mulch just decorative or is it necessary for healthy, growing plants?

Why Mulch Matters
  • Moisture

Mulch locks in moisture. Available water is critical for survival during the first two years after transplant (installation). Heck, maybe five years. Mulch saves water. When drought strikes, keep the area UNDER the mulch wet.

  • Weed Control

The surface of the mulch will stay dry, so weeds will germinate poorly. The mulch (and soil) underneath stays moist, so the plant stays happy and healthy. When weeds do grow on mulch, they are easier to pull or hoe, because the mulch is soft and looser than soil.

Mulch also keeps grass from growing at the base of trees and shrubs. This allows the plant to capture all of the available water and nutrients.

  • No Soil Compaction

Compacted soil doesn’t grow roots. It’s too dense for roots to push through. Mulch prevents compaction from lawn mower tires because it’s grass free. There’s no need to travel on top of it, so the soil stays loose and ideal for root growth.

  • Organic Matter Creation

Why is organic matter good? It’s the natural fertilizer from the soil food web. If you’re not fertilizing with inorganic fertilizer, your plants get all their nourishment from the organic layer of soil. It’s a very thin layer at the soil line.

Mulch can thicken the organic matter layer and it keeps it moist, so the organic matter is ALIVE!

My Mulch Recommendations
  • Pine Straw

It’s easy to spread, lightweight, inexpensive, lasts several years. This works great on acid loving plants like blueberries and azaleas.

  • Pine Tree Bark

It turns to organic matter slowly, thus building your soil. It dries quickly, so it can be an effective weed barrier.

  • Choose conifer bark mulch over hardwood tree mulch

Conifer (pine, douglas fir) bark mulch doesn’t rot as quickly as hardwood mulch. Hardwood mulch is more likely to harbor termites.

Mulch Best Practices
  • Turn the mulch annually with a rake or hoe.

By turning the mulch pile and raking it around, you’re opening the mold to fresh air and the pile will compost normally.

How Much Mulch do I Need?

I don’t like it over 4 inches thick. Leave the stem exposed to the root flair. Rodents and disease can strike if the stem is buried. The outer layer of plant stems is soft and tender immediately under the bark. It’s the cambium layer. The cambium is where all the water and nutrients flow up and down the stems. If a rabbit or rat chews the cambium all the way around the tree stem above is dead. I mean a stick. You hear me?

A Mulch Volcano is a waste of money. Two inches deep max.

A Mulch Volcano is a waste of money. Two-four inches deep max.

So don’t make a mulch volcano. Horticulturists will make fun of you. And you don’t need to buy so much mulch. A win-win. Well, almost. I like the wider the better.

Mulch is Optional, but Highly Recommended

There’s no reason not to use mulch for new transplants. They need that help because the roots are growing from a container rootball. Meaning 100% of the roots supplying life are right underneath the tree trunk or shrub stems. Mulch helps keep that area moist. 

Agree or disagree? Let me know on the Facebook Page!

Lawn Sprinklers Waste Time and Money for Freshly Planted Trees and Shrubs

Sprinklers work great for established, older plants. They are not ideal for newly planted trees and shrubs. When working with a new client, I emphasize watering the new plants almost daily. I worry when the client tells me “no sweat, I have a sprinkler system. The new tree will be fine.”

Soak the ground next to the stems. Be wary of sprinklers wasting water away from the roots.

Soak the ground next to the stems. Be wary of sprinklers wasting water away from the roots.

Now, don’t get me wrong. I love automation and low maintenance lawn and shrub care. But sprinklers can create false confidence.

Lawn sprinklers are designed to irrigate a specific area consistently. The problem lies in the fact that new plants need all the water at the root ball. Not near the sprinkler and not in the grass outside the root zone.  Only at the roots and at the root’s edge. Remember to soak and allow the soil to dry.

Click here to learn how to water plants effectively.

Lawn sprinklers shouldn’t be used everyday. Allow the sprinklers to soak an area thoroughly. Check soil moisture with your finger and a shovel. If the ground is moist several inches deep then allow drying. When the top inch is powder dry, soak the area again.

If you’re unsure how to setup your sprinkler system, I would be happy to help. Water management is critical to succeeding the first time! Please leave a comment below with your best tip on being water-wise.